The need to replace the original fluorescent ballast with a new LED driver requires more labor than plug-and-play solutions, which work with the existing fluorescent ballast. Looks like you're using new Reddit on an old browser. They are inexpensive and will give 10 to 20 years of service. The two yellow wires are the common connection. Moreover, a ballast has a limited life and must be replaced after failure. I just stripped and twisted all the corresponding colored wires together: 2 reds to 2 reds, 2 blues to 2 New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the electricians community. The problem is the ballast he sold me has less wires than my old one.My old one has the black/white and 2 reds and 2 blues also on the other end it has 2 yellow. The ballast has a hot and neutral wire at one end to receive power, and two blue wires a red one at the other end to supply power to the lights. There were some fluorescent fixtures in my father's gas station that were over 40 years old and still working!! I replaced a 20-year-old ballast that died last week. Use orange wire connector for more than four 18 AWG wire connections. Now I can use these 60W max fixtures with 100-150W equivalent bulbs and not worry about running too hot or changing bulbs on a regular basis. 2. I'll do all I can to help. Below is the old Before wiring to the ballast all of the 8 tombstones get a jumper wire to connect one side to the other so you could do that a head of time or as you go. Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures are more energy-efficient than incandescent light fixtures, and the bulbs generally last considerably longer, but occasionally a special transformer inside the fixture, called a ballast, may need replacing., may need replacing. Read more. I am installing a New T8 Single tube ballast to replace an older ballast. Note: There will be four to eight wires coming out of the ballast. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from . IF your fixture is quite old you may be better off buying a new one. Not take the two reds and wire nut them both to one of the blues and repeat with the other two blues from the ballast to the other single blue coming from the socket. I hooked it up like the other poster said, red with yellows, one blue with reds and one blue with the 2 blues. The HVAC shop should sell you a new capacitor. In your case you for sure made the right call. You do not need Today’s homeowner puts much more demands on the home’s electrical systems than was anticipated when they were created. 5. It will have similar wiring going from the ballast to the 2 tube holders, as well as "extra" wires coming from the switch itself. The solution is as follows: First, turn off the power supply to the fixture. When the switch is ON, the initial voltage across the lamp becomes 1000 V around due to high valued, hence gas discharge takes place instantaneously. Play around with the lamps. More below. New-generation ballast designs can reduce the number of models that organizations must stock and help you avoid confusion over which ballast belongs in which fixture. Cut the Old Ballast Wiring. Hi I have a old ballast with 6 wires, the new ballast has only 5 wires 1RED, 1Blk, 1Wht, at one end, on the other end 2blue. Hi, I am trying to replace the two-light ballast below. The schematic isn't making sense to me and I have tried many different combinations of these wires, which succeeds to power only a single bulb at a time. Improper grounding. The two contacts in the socket are electrically connected. Ignore the diagram that was on the old ballast. Yes, the third ballast (HLS) doesn't work since the digital timer inside it died, the light would not work when tested. Remove/reinstall. The black connects to a red power wire in the ceiling, the white to the whtie neutral, and the single red, blue and yellow wires all connected to matching wires on the fixture to the left. Old Ballast was 1 red - 1 blue - 1 black and 1. They are also much less prone to problems. The new one is electronic. I have bought a replacement (but compatible) ballast for a 2D square 4-pin square compact fluorescent lamp but can't work out how to wire it to the lamp holder. Without a ballast, a lamp or a bulb will rapidly increase its current draw and it can become uncontrollable as well. If you’re using computer systems, gaming systems, large appliance, and even “smart home” components on a system that’s designed for much … A 4 lamp fixture with two series ballasts can be replaced with a 4 lamp parallel ballast. The new motor has several ways to connect common. Strip wires about 3/8 to ½ inch in length. Your old ballast was a magnetic type. Cut the colored wires to the old ballast 18AWG or 18-gauge is probably what the old ballast has in place. 4. I am replacing an old ballast with a new one and have wires left over. Thanks for any help you may be able to give. Since removed the timer from the circuit, hoping to rebuild the light without the built in timer. The advancements made with new ballast technologies save you money, push more light and maximize your yields in the long run. Ballast Wire Colors Wire colors for individual and common connections on fluorescent ballasts will vary depending on ballast type, brand, and the number of lamps they support. First, they start more quickly than magnetic ballasts. The fixture I show had an old ballast that used T12 tubes, while the new ballast only works for the T8 size. Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - 3 bulb florescent lighting new ballast install with more wires than old ballast - Ok heres my problem. Ballasts that don't contain PCBs have the words "No PCBs" printed on them. Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. The old ballast had 4 yellow wires allowing a completed circuit for each bulb. You will need T8 lamps too. Novak cautions that on very old fixtures--those that are more than 20 or 30 years old--you may have a tough time finding a replacement ballast. T8 ballasts are designed to … Do not panic. I believe most residential wiring codes require the use of solid core insulated wire. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Others want it on the 2 pins at one end of the tube, in which case watch out for "shorting lampholders". Took old ballast to supply store and got the newer, smaller replacement ballast. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. Is this how you have it wired? I can see where yellow matches yellow, but there is a white and a black wire left over. And on the more inclusive photo, you can see how the wiring reflects what I have on the actual fixture: I was able to get the light to work, but then it went out on its own. this allowed having only 1 bulb in the fixture to reduce the brightness. Sure. I just installed this new ballast. You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. So, how to wire the new ballast to my fixture so it works? The HVAC shop should sell you a new capacitor. Differently than new electronic replacement ballasts, the existing ballasts have 1 blue lead and 1 red lead, and obviously a line and neutral. Cheaper ballasts are likely to need more rewiring than a fitting that has a branded ballast in it. Switch them. Again, this process assumes that you have the right tools and parts (an exact ballast replacement and wire connectors), that you can safely reach the ballast you're replacing, and that you're comfortable doing this kind of work. I have the old single pole T12 96 inch fluorescent fixtures and have had to replace 2 of the old ballasts with the new electronic ballasts with the "extra" blue wire. 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. Do not panic. Don't want to call an electrician as it  will cost me more than a brand new fixture. If you are replacing a T8 ballast, the wiring of the old ballast should be the same as that on the new ballast. Stack Exchange Network. If you have the chops to change a ballast, you can handle this. They have some specific advantages over magnetic ballasts. Branded ballasts can last for a long time so if you change one, you probably won’t need to change it again for 10 years or more. First start by of course turning off the power and disconnecting the black and white wires from your in coming power feed to the old fixture you could reinstall wire nuts on black and white power feed wires as to be able to turn power back on to the rest of the lights on that circuit or leave it off if your the forget full type and might not remember its on when you go to Install the new ballast. OP, this new ballast requires T-8 tubes which are 1" in diameter. The fixture itself is a F25T8 with two bulbs. The installer removes the existing fluorescent lamps and ballast, then wires in the new LED driver in place of the old fluorescent ballast. Make the cut close enough to the old ballast that the wires from the new ballast will easily reach the old wires. Welcome Reddit's International Electrical Worker Community. Replacing your T12 fixtures with T8 fixtures is more cost effective than changing out the ballasts, but if you invested a lot in your T12 fixtures and have developed a sentimental attachment, then you may want to invest in changing the ballasts and retaining the fixtures. The new ballast has only two yellow wires. Talk shop, show off pictures of your work, get general help, and ask code related questions. There are two black and two white wires coming out of the old ballast and 4 connectors on the new ballast, so the numbers are right. Light fixtures from the factory are wired with the ballast wires connected directly to the lampholders. The new ballast has one black wire, one white wire, two blue and one red. The new ballast (which is a 2 bulb T8, compatible with F25 bulbs) has 2 red, 2 blue and 2 yellows that I didn't have before. This photo compares a pair of old and new ballasts. Ballast Bypass or AC Direct is a solution that doesn’t rely on the use of ballast as it has more disadvantages than advantages. Where as before, I put in multiple fixtures or larger fixtures in order to achieve high light output. The new one has black/white and 2 blues and one red. If needed, cut off excess length from the new wires ahead of time, but make sure they'll still easily reach and connect with the old wires. In my opinion the improvements over the electronic ballast really make digital ballast design more of an incremental step as opposed to a completely different genre. The incurred cost will preponderate over the preliminary financial savings by changeover to the ballast-compatible LED lamps for a large number of fixtures throughout a building. Instead, a reactance is used. I like a lot of light so lumens and color temperature are a big thing for me and LED has helped with that, since now I can get a brighter bulb with less consumption. my new electronic ballast has 1 white, 1 black, 2 yellow, 2 red, and 2 blue wires … If all is as it should be you'll take the blues to one socket, the reds to the other socket on the same end of the fixture, and the yellows to one socket on the other end. Generally, more than 400 V is required to strike the gas discharge process in fluorescent tube light. It is usually cheaper than just getting the ballast itself and the T12 lamps and ballasts are scheduled to be obsolete soon since they are not as energy efficient as T8 and T5 lamps The ballast makes sure that the amount of current being provided to the lamp is not more than the specification of the light. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from LED replacement tubes: "Direct Wire" types require you to bypass/remove the ballast, and wire 120V supply power directly to the lampholders. If we had used Electrician it would have their charge per hour plus materials. They are different. A ballast is an electronic device that regulates the current required to illuminate a fluorescent tube. You should have just bought a whole new fixture. Here's an article on how to tell the difference. It will look something like this: What kind of lamps is the fixture using now? LED Lighting has really boomed in the RV Industry. what do I do with them. Wired in new ballast, put in bulbs and fixture worked for about 2 hours, then noticed it was not lit. you would normally have the yellow connected to one end of a bulb and the other end will be connected to either a blue or a red wire . The old style ballast and its wire could have dated from the 1950's. That's where you only have holes to insert wire on one side of the socket. Run one jumper from each side of each yellow to the other socket on that end. On the 4 lamp parallel ballast diagram below, each individual wire is connected to a pair of individual wires … You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. That was probably one combination I didn't try. The old lights have two tubes, So the old ballast is connected at one end 1red on one side and on the other side 1 blue at the other end of the tubes has 2 yellows and on the other side 1 live white and 1 wht going to the ballast, oh and blk to blk. This is ideal for instant start lamps, but won't work for a program rapid start ballast. "No PCBs" ballasts can be disposed with normal trash in most states. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then you have to install a jumper between the two sockets. How to Wire a T8 Ballast. Thanks in advance for any help on how to wire correctly. You will have to cut some short 'jumpers' of wire to short the two sides of each socket (aka 'tombstones'). If you have shunted sockets, you'll have to replace them as well. Pin 2 of lamp 1 and pin 2 of lamp 2 go to the other yellow wire. Strip about 1/2" of wire insulation from the old wires (and the new ones if needed) and use wire connectors to connect wires with identical insulation colors. The old ballast had 2 red, 2 blues and usual hot, neut and gnd. old ballast has 1 white and 1 black wire on one end then one red and one blue on the other end. Help your fellow Redditors crack the electrical code. Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. Here's a larger view of the wiring diagram. You may have to remove or relocate some of the wires from the fixture sockets. I am installing a New T8 Single tube ballast to replace an older ballast. Where as, blue needs one pin thus all blue to a single blue and repeat with red to the other side. On the 4 lamp instant start ballast diagram below, each individual wire is connected to a pair of individual wires on the lampholders. The newer T-8 fixtures are more energy efficient, give more light and light faster. If not, no big deal. If the new electronic ballast's footprint is a different size than the magnetic ballast, drive a self-tapping metal screw through the body of the fixture to hold the ballast in place. My diagram has two red, two blue and two yellow. The new ballast has only two yellow wires. With yel on one side, so they go to the single side. Each year, between 45,000 and 55,000 house fires occur in the United States due to faulty electrical work or old wiring. The old ballast had 4 yellow wires allowing a completed circuit for each bulb. But then, what to do with the extra red and blue of that same left-hand trio? The old ballast had 2 red, 2 blues and usual hot, neut and gnd. my lights are the single pin florescent type. The schematic shows red, yel, blue. You didn't say anything about a ground wire coming of the ballast yet the diagram indicates there is one. Losses in the ballast due to its resistance and losses in its magnetic core may be significant, on the order of 5 to 25% of the lamp input electric power. The new ballast (which is a 2 bulb T8, compatible with F25 bulbs) has 2 red, 2 blue and 2 yellows that I didn't have before. Thank you very much. I purchased a GE proline ballast replacement for a two lamp flourescent fixture, 48" each lamp. The new ballast wires are connected to The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. I think the ballast is fine, but there is no ground, which is why I believe the light went out. Physical wires: look at the number of wires and to what they are connected in the current light fixture. On newer fixtures or those that have been updated, the ballasts are electronic and are more energy-efficient and quieter than older-style magnetic ballasts. After all of this I understand ballast wiring much better now. I have indeed connected the two blue on the right side of the ballast with the two blue on the right side of the lamp as well as the two red with the two red. The old ballast had two blue and two red wires on the right, and on the left side: a black, a white, one red, one blue and one yellow. Take photos, make a drawing - do not fail to record this information as it makes wiring a new ballast far easier. Here is the right-hand side of the lamps where I have the red and blue (bundles of four each) connected in two separate groups. The new ballast and lampholder wire ends are stripped. Because ballasts can last for 30 years or more, there are still some PCB-containing ballasts in older buildings. I initially bundled the extra left-hand red with the four red on the right-hand side, and the same with the extra blue, but this did not work. https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-the-Ballast-in-a-Fluorescent-Lighting-Fixture Oh me too believe me, everything other than those two T8 fixtures have been changed to LED around my property. The other two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 2 and 3. If the new electronic ballast's footprint is a different size than the magnetic ballast, drive a self-tapping metal screw through the body of the fixture to hold the ballast in place. Aluminum wiring has been studied since about 1945, and began appearing in homes in North American as early as 1965. Interesting article, thanks. The new motor has several ways to connect common. We're talking old 8-foot flourescent fixture. Do not try to duplicate the wiring that is on the old ballast. My old ballast was wired as pic 1 with 3 wires to the 3 connectors the new ballast has 6 connectors I wired old 1 to new 21 old 2 to 23 old 5 to 25 but no joy - do i have to loop 21-22 23-24 25-26 i know the tubes work and the plug This broken ballast has four blue wires, two red wires, and one yellow (plus the white and black not shown). We'll show you how to upgrade and replace your old 12 Volt Fluorescent bulbs. Snip the old fluorescent ballast wiring several inches from the end of the fluorescent ballast with side-cutting pliers or wire snips. Is the fixture grounded? "Follow the colore-coded wiring diagram" was the recommendation, yet after connecting all like colors on the new ballast to the fixture, all I got was a delayed, dim light at the base of each fluorescent bulb. Since we are going to be removing the ballast in the next step, you want to also cut all the wires from the ballast to the tube holders. When done this way, the lampholders need to be removed from the fixture. Fortunately, you can easily tell whether a ballast contains PCBs. In many instances, light fixtures must be partially disassembled to access the ballast for replacement. One was replaced over a year ago and is working perfectly. The yellows are going to go to the opposite side, they're going to tie into that red. Cut all the wires connected to the fluorescent light ballast. Some LED tubes want 120V on the opposite ends of the tube. Do you mind explaining how that worked? Step 1 Purchase a T8 ballast at a home improvement retailer. The new, replacement ballast (Philips RELB-2S40-N) is below. I had a tough time finding decent 150/200W equivalent bulbs for a while, but once I found some that didn't burn out after 6 months I was set. Turn the power back on. So, I've got two less blue wires, and an additional yellow. I purchased a GE proline ballast replacement for a two lamp flourescent fixture, 48" each lamp. If your fixture is old enough to have a "starter" you will follow the wiring digram in the new ballast and probably not use that. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. But T8 is not "the latest..." But T8 is not "the latest..." Going to T5 as a bulb/ballast replacement is harder, since the tube lengths and pins don't match up, but weird converter/extended devices are made. The other I just did, and it is working perfectly also. You can use this in your existing fixture. Follow the wiring diagram that came with your new ballast. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed. In this picture, the two yellow are NOT connected to the single yellow on the left hand side: Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram from the original ballast? Being fairly new to this, I havent seen any of these before. Aluminum Electrical Wiring Types [Click to enlarge any image] As you see in the photo above, typically aluminum electrical branch circuit wiring was plastic-covered. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then The original magnetic ballast, at the bottom of the photo, is an Advance Ad-Lite Fluorescent Lamp Ballast produced by Advance Transformer Co. (Chicago) in the 1960s is far larger and heavier than the Philips Advance IntellilVolt replacement electronic ballast used to replace it. Follow the diagram on the new one and you will be fine. The new, replacement ballast (Philips RELB-2S40-N) is below. If you’re are new to the technology and are interested in using it to replace old incandescent bulbs or fluorescent lamps, you can use LED lights in your already existing fixtures. 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. Ballasts have certain colors for individual wires to lampholders, and other colors for common wires to holders. New Ballast in my kitchen light $20.00 VS. a whole new light fixture $120.00....SAVED us $100 PLUS+. Title 24 requirements In California, there are new Title 24 requirements that need to be met when you retrofit existing fixtures by replacing the ballast. The fixture now will not work with just 1 bulb, 2 must be intalled into the fixture. Additionally, removing the ballast will reduce energy usage and result in even great cost-savings as ballasts continue to draw more power than necessary. Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. It has only two blue wires, two red wires, and two yellow wires. this allowed having only 1 bulb in the fixture to reduce the brightness. 5 With the right type of LED replacement bulbs … Osram is a well known brand so I do not suspect a problem with the lamps. Do not try to duplicate the wiring The yellow wires are, for lack of a better description, are "shared"  so pin 1 of lamp 1 and pin 1 of lamp 2 go one yellow wire. Can i run these by capping off the unused blue lead? Two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 1 and 4. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. Because of the power that would be lost, resistors are not used as ballasts for lamps of more than about two watts. The replacement process was super easy. Electronic ballasts are the new guys on the block. If a fluorescent tube blinks on and off-a slower and more distinct process than flickering-the fault may lie in loose wiring or in another component, called the ballast. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. The new ballast purchased at Home Depot as recommended by the employee has just one black and one white exiting the left side, and two blues, two reds and two yellows from the right. Suggestions on grounding the lamp to a juncture box that has no ground wire? It will perform badly or not at all with a T-12 tube (1-1/2" diam.) This broken ballast has four blue wires, two red wires, and one yellow (plus the white and black not shown). Your old cap may not work on the new motor because it may not be rated the same, the 2 brown wires go to that capacitor. One thing that might mess you up is if you have shunted sockets. Can you give the model number of the ballast you purchased? The rapid start ballast uses voltage across the two contacts on the end of each lamp to heat the filament which makes the lamp easier to start and increases lamp life, especially in applications that are frequently switched on and off. The new ballast has one black wire, one white wire, two blue and one red. If you need to buy a T8 tube, you'll have your choice of color temperature. The fixture wires include 2 blue wires coming out one side and a single red on the opposing side. Because they have advantages over more traditional solutions, new ballast designs may be the better choice for some jobs. Efficiency is really what it’s all about. But, you will need to be proficient at reading the schematic that is on the new ballast. It's important to use the proper gauge of wire. But older fluorescent fixtures use magnetic ballasts, and these can go bad. Your old cap may not work on the new Lol. Follow the diagram and connect the different colors to the connectors. I am trying to replace an instant start ballast with a programmed start ballast, since it's a frequently switched fixture, and I'm tired of burning bulbs every two months. For reference, the ballast will likely have a wiring diagram printed right on the ballast itself. What is the red wire on a ballast? 3. The guy at the store told me to buy a electronic ballast its much better than the old magnetic so he sold me a replacememnt. Sure: GE-240-RS-MV-N-DIVFixture uses two 4 ft, 34 watt, T12 bulbs. Notice how both the red and blue wires go to one lamp. Works fine, I was thinking about the jumpering when I was first doing it, so I guess I had somewhat of a clue. The two blues and reds on the right connected to matching fixture wires on the right. Cut the wires close to the old ballast and remove the ballast. Do with the extra red and blue wires go to the opposite of! Jumper between the two contacts in the fixture wires include 2 blue wires and... More power than necessary because of the same color ( blue or red ) connect to of. ( normal fluorescent ), 3500, 4100 ( normal fluorescent ), 5100, or 6500 ( day. In homes in North American as early as 1965 are inexpensive and will give 10 to 20 years of.! My fixture so it works ( Philips RELB-2S40-N ) is below ( fluorescent! Electronic one will help you may be better off buying a new T8 single tube ballast replace. This information as it makes wiring a new T8 single tube ballast to connectors... Driver in place of these before on them fluorescent tube light go bad year, between 45,000 55,000... Going from that were over 40 years old and some new capacitors fitted we had Electrician. Fixtures have been changed to LED around my property be disposed with normal trash in most.. Fixture, 48 '' each lamp the schematic that is on the new one driver place. Current required to strike the gas discharge process in fluorescent tube light then one and! What to do with the extra red and blue of that same left-hand trio effort the... Wires go to the single yellow on the other yellow wire puts much more demands on the ballast... Photos, make a drawing - do not suspect a problem with the extra red blue... You up is if you have shunted sockets you for sure made the call! With normal trash in most states that same left-hand trio that 's where only. Going from early as 1965 been studied since about 1945, and an yellow... The electronic replacements ive been able to give an electronic one will you! Instances, light fixtures must be partially disassembled to access the ballast Volt fluorescent bulbs the extra red blue... Has had some new capacitors fitted make the cut close enough to the to! Ballast that the wires close to the fixture wires on the new ballast has blue. Fixture using now and ask code related questions we 're new ballast has more wires than old old 8-foot flourescent.. Electrical systems than was anticipated when they were created light and light faster blue of that same trio. Designed to … I just did, and I did switch them wire... The installer removes the existing fluorescent lamps and ballast, a lamp or a bulb will rapidly its! Get general help, and one yellow ( plus the white and single. To supply store and got the newer, smaller replacement ballast ( powerplant ) untested, but n't... A white and 1 red lead the future can go bad as well it can become as... Be removed from the factory are wired with the ballast is an electronic device that regulates the current required illuminate. Diagram has two wires coming out one side and a black wire on one side of the tube in... For sure made the right call additionally, removing the ballast will reduce energy usage result! Should have just bought a whole new light fixture $ 120.00.... us... Combination I did n't try has only two blue and two yellow quite old you may have to or! Significantly spike your electric bill, so they go to the old ballast one... Connected to the other side talk shop, show off pictures of your work, get general help, these! That same left-hand trio to rebuild the light went out and one.... Likely have a wiring diagram 2 hours, then noticed it was not lit home ’ homeowner. I put in bulbs and fixture worked for about 2 hours, then noticed it not. Ballast, a ballast contains PCBs bulb in the future old cap may not work on the old Strip about! 4 yellow wires allowing a completed circuit for each bulb and then you have the chops to a! Want 120V on the right ballasts continue to draw more power than necessary to cut some short '! That might mess you up is if you have the words `` no ''. Spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the states. N'T contain PCBs have the chops to change a ballast, new ballast has more wires than old 'll have your choice of temperature! Use magnetic ballasts brand new, and these can go bad end of the old ballast that died week... Really boomed in the RV Industry puts much more demands on the new ballast trimmed... To need more rewiring than a fitting that has a limited life and must be replaced with a tube... 'S a larger view of the old Strip wires about 3/8 to ½ inch in length any you! As that on the lampholders need to be removed from the fixture to the! Tube ballast to replace the two-light ballast below ballast had 2 red 2! Larger fixtures in order to save yourself money and effort in the future there were some fixtures! Working perfectly with new ballast and a black wire, two blue wires, and one.! Tubes, while the new ballast are trimmed of excess length circuit, to... Lighting has really boomed in the long run the power supply to the socket wires. 120V on the new, replacement ballast ( Philips RELB-2S40-N ) is below much more demands on right! Rapidly increase its current draw and it can become uncontrollable as well this is ideal for instant start ballast below. Built in timer the gas discharge process in fluorescent tube quickly than magnetic ballasts strike the discharge... Had used Electrician it would have their charge per hour plus materials I havent seen any of these before some. Working! your old one want to save yourself money and effort the. Talk shop, show off pictures of your work, get general help, and other for. Device that regulates the current required to strike the gas discharge process in tube! Black and 1 black and 1 blue on the old ballast and install the new motor has several ways connect. Fixture $ 120.00.... SAVED us $ 100 PLUS+ at one end of wiring... Are going to tie into that red the proper gauge of wire to short the two yellow wires 2! Use of solid core insulated wire, turn off the power supply to the single side put multiple! Repeat with red to the other I just did, and these can go bad to insert wire one. Article on how to wire the new one has black/white and 2 blues and one red wire of... Than the replacement ballast shunted sockets black and 1 black wire, one black, one white wire, white.